Bra Top

Figure 1. If you are using a Jezebel/pushup bra, this is what you are working with.

Figure 2. Mark where front straps are sewn on. Remove shoulder straps and cut off tab. Trim off lace from top edge of bra cups.

Figure 3. Cut elastic side straps as shown, slashing into the corners as shown.

Figure 4. Turn under elastic 1/4" and 1/4" again and stitch by hand. Sew only about an inch and then pull the elastic taut. This will loosen the stitches. Backstitch, and then repeat along the strap every inch. This method of sewing will retain the "stretch" in the elastic.

Figure 5. Cut as shown in the triangle between the bra cups.

Figure 6. Turn under 1/4" and 1/4" again and stitch.

Figure 7. Cut a length of grosgrain ribbon for each side of the neck strap. 12 is the length for an average size. If in doubt, add 3 or 4 inches. You can always cut it off later. The ribbon should be 1/2" or 3/4" wide. Turn under 1/4" and 1/4" again and stitch on both ends of each strap. On the inside of the bra cups, place the lower 2" of the strap where you marked the place of the original straps. Stitch securely in place (dotted lines on figure 7). Sew a hook on the end of one strap and an eye on the end of the other. Try on. Adjust neck strap to fit.

Decorate with beadwork, embroidery, fringe, or coins.

In addition, Azura of Spokane, WA, offers the following advice:

The main thing I don't think is necessary is taking a perfectly good bra apart. After all, a bra is made to fit a woman's body. Removing all of the straps and completely rebuilding and hoping for a good fit makes no sense to me. I tried it, and didn't like it.

I suggest buying a good quality, back hooking, UNDERWIRE bra with sturdy cups. If you can't find hard cups, you can remedy that by lining with denim, fiberfill, or felt. Depending on the weight of what you are applying to the outside. I don't suggest using glue, as it is too hard to sew through.

I suggest buying a cup and size bigger than normal. Cups have a tendency to "shrink" after covering with fabric, adding appliqués, beading etc. It is always easier to add a little "fill" if necessary, than deal with a cup that "runneth over". And the reason for buying the next size around, is because I immediately remove those wimpy little hooks and eyes and replace them with 2 large "pant hooks". The extra length allows enough overlap for two hooks and the trim tends to "shrink" the elastic a little. It's easier to overlap more, than to try to add some length.

If the bra has elastic shoulder straps, I remove them and make a neck strap with grosgrain ribbon, or something else strong. All elastic straps allow for way too much "movement" while dancing. If they aren't elastic, I remove them, discard all of the little plastic or metal parts, put one end of one strap down (about 1 1/2 inches) inside of one cup (where it connects) and zig zag back and forth several times. Put the bra on, and pin the other end down inside of the other cup and zig zag stitch. If your neck is sensitive to a non-stretching neck strap, splice an inch or so of elastic in the center under hair. Double check at this point for comfort and fit.

If the cups are too low-cut, add some fabric across the top.

If there is mesh between the cups, decide if you want to cut it out, or cover, leaving elastic in place. If there is no mesh, make sure whatever holds the cups together is sturdy enough. If not, add grosgrain ribbon for strength.

Now, decide if you want to cut out the mesh between the back straps (leaving the elastic in place), or cover for a more modest look.

I cover each cup with one piece of decorative fabric rather than making a center seam. I start with a circle of fabric quite a bit bigger than the cup. (about 1 1/2" all around) I put cup over my knee, to stabilize, starting at the top of cup, turning the fabric under itself, pin to cup, working around edges of cup.

Between the bottom of cup and your underarm, take a dart. Now, whip stitch all around cup and up dart, softening point. Repeat on other cup.

One other way I have covered bras is with rows of sequin trim.

Put the bra on, have a friend or husband pin the decorative trim on all straps, (or the fabric to cover the mesh). I zig zag most trims to straps, making sure elastic is stretched to it's fullest.

Now you are ready to add appliqués, beaded fringe or whatever.

Lost?

Do you have some great costuming ideas? Let me know!